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1、 A Appliqu: Surface pattern made by cutting out fabric or lace designs and attaching them to another fabric or lace by means of embroidery or stitching. Armhole: Section of a garment through which an arm passes or into which a sleeve is sewn. Armhole Drop: Distance from High Point Shoulder

2、or Low Point Shoulder measured to imaginary line at base of armhole that is at a 90-degree angle from CF or CB. Armhole Point: The point on a pattern where armhole and side seam intersect. Armscye: See definition for Armhole. B Backstitch: See definition for Backtack. Backtack:

3、Stitches used to secure the threads at the beginning and/or ending of a row of stitching. Bagged Lining: Lining that is stitched securely to shell at hems. Balance: Garment appears symmetrical on the body. Hanging equal distances from the body right to left, and front to back. Balanced Pl

4、aid/Stripe Placement: Refers to the symmetrical appearance of the plaid on the body. The stripe/plaid must start at the same point on both sides of the garment. Banana Stand: See definition for Half Moon Stand. Band Neckline, Circular: For definition see set-circular. Band Neckline, Flat:

5、 For definition see set-flat Barrel Button: See definition for Toggle Button. Bartack: A series of short stitches sewn close together and used to reinforce areas of strain or stress. Can be zigzag or straight stitching. Basting Stitch: Temporarily holds together two layers of fabric. Bel

6、low: A method of adding fullness to an area of a garment, usually a pocket. Often stitched around edges to hold shape. Bellying: See Cockling Belt loop: Narrow strip of fabric or thread chain at the waistline to keep a belt in position. Besom Pocket: See definition for Welt Pocket. Bias Cu

7、t: Cutting diagonally across the grain of the fabric at a 45 degree angle to the selvedge, resulting in a garment that clings and follows body curves closely. Bind Off (Sweater): See definition for Cast Off. Binding: A narrow strip of fabric used to cover seams or raw edges to give a clean f

8、inished edge and is visible on both sides of the fabric. Can be single-turned, double-turned or combination. Blanket Stitch(502) Blended Yarns: Yarns composed of two or more different fibers mixed together and then spun to form one yarn. Blindstitch: For Definition see Hem and 103 Blist

9、ering: See definition for Bubbling. Block: See definition for Sloper. Blocking: The shaping of a sweater into its finished form. Steam and pressure are applied to make the blocked shape hold. Body Fabric: Outer layer of fabric in a garment. Bond Strength: The numerical measurement of force

10、required to separate the interlining from the piece goods. The measurement of gram force is recorded in Newton (N = 102gf) or Ounce (oz = 28.35gf). Bonding: Process of joining 2 fabrics into one by backing with adhesive or foam. Boning: Firm flexible strip, like nylon, concealed in casing to hol

11、d shape or prevent stretching. Bootcut Silhouette: Bound Buttonhole: For definition see buttonhole Bound Neckline, Circular: For definition see set-circular. Bound Neckline, Flat: For definition see set-flat Bound Seam: Method of finishing a seam by binding seam allowance.

12、 Bow, Bowing: A fabric flaw in which the crosswise yarns arc across the width of the fabric. Box Pleat: Pleat formed by folding material alternately in opposite directions. Box Pleat Inverted Box Pleat Braided Elastic: See definition for Elastic Braided Bubbling: The separation at dif

13、ferent points between the interlining and the piece goods. Buckle: A fastening device, in a variety of sizes and shapes, consisting of an open rim having a single or center bar, with or without a prong. Bust Dart: See definition for Dart. Busted Seam: See definition for Pressed Open Seam.

14、 Button: Decorative or functional component used to hold two sides of a garment together. Can be made out of many materials and can either have holes punched in the center for stitching or a shank on the back. Buttons are made to slip through a buttonhole or fabric loop. Button and Loop Cross-Stit

15、ch Attached: See definition for Button. Button Parallel Stitch Attached: See definition for Button. Buttonhole: Opening for a button to pass through and secure a garment opening. Can be bound, stitched/worked, or made from a loop of thread, cord or bias tubing. Button Sleeve Placket: See

16、 definition for Placket. Button Stabilizer: A plain flat button usually made of clear plastic placed inside a garment behind the top outside button. Can be used anywhere there are buttons for closure. C Cap Snap: See definition for Snap. Cargo Pocket: A stylized patch pocket, often with

17、 bellows, with flap closure at the top. Casing: Fold of fabric stitched down to form an opening through which elastic or a cord is drawn. Cast Off (Sweater): Methods of removing open stitches from the needles must be finished with a bind off (like rib neck trim) to prevent unraveling of the fini

18、shed edge. Can also be decorative stitches within a panel. Cast On (Sweater): See definition of Sweater Start. Centered Over Seam Stitch: Topstitch on each side of the seam, equal distance from the seam. Can be produced by two single needles or 1 double needle. Chain Tack: See definition f

19、or Swing Tack. Chisel Pocket: See definition for Ruler Pocket. Circular Finish: See definition for Set Circular Circular Knit: See definition for Tubular Knit. Clean Finish: Indicates that raw edges of fabric are finished in a way that stops fabric from fraying and hides raw edges. Clicki

20、ng: See definition for Die Cutting. Closure: Components that work together to hold 2 sides of a garment together. Cockling: Cockling and Bellying mean the same thing. If elastic has a wavy appearance along its length, this is called cockling or bellying. The primary cause is when the individu

21、al ends of spandex (rubber) relax or contract more than the majority in the same length of the elastic causing waviness along the top edge. Coin Pocket: Small decorative pocket usually found on bottom garments, usually located inside side pocket. Can be a patch pocket or on-seam pocket constructi

22、on. Collar: No Band Collar With Band Collar Collar Stay: Narrow strip of plastic or metal inserted in point of collar from the underside or is sewn to interlining between layers of collar fabric added to garment to ensure a crisp unwrinkled look. Collarband: See definition for Collarsta

23、nd Collarstand: Separate shaped piece of fabric that is the full length of garment neckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. Used to help shape and fit collar to body and also can be used to close neckline. Color Fast: A term used to determine whether a color ‘bleeds’ duri

24、ng laundering. This is normally measured by a grading system 1 – 5. Concealed Zipper: Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth not visible. Some specific construction methods are center lapped or kissing, side lapped, and invisible. Construction: Processes in order to cons

25、truct a garment, consists of stitching and/or fusing garment pieces together. Continuous Sleeve Placket: See definition for Placket. Contoured Waistband: See definition for Waistband. Cording: See definition for Piping. Cordlock: A locking device that is typically spring activated and

26、 may have 1 or 2 holes. Used to adjust drawcords, etc. Core Thread: Thread formed by spinning a cotton, rayon, or polyester fiber around a continuous filament bundle of fibers giving the thread the advantages of a spun and Filament construction. Course: A crosswise or horizontal row of loops i

27、n knitted fabric. Covered Button: See definition for Button. Crack-stitched: See definition for Stitch-in-the-Ditch. Crescent Stand: See definition for Half Moon Stand. Crocking: The transfer of dye stuff from one fabric to another by friction. This problem is usually worse with darker s

28、hades. Reds are often a problem in this respect. This is a dyeing problem and can be dealt with in the dye house. Cross Grain Cut: The cutting of a pattern piece perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric Crotch: Crotch Curve: The bottom of a rise curve. Crotch Depth: The straight di

29、stance from crotch to top of waistband in pants, shorts, etc. Crotch Point: The point on the pattern where the front or back rise intersects with the inseam. Curtain Waistband: A method of finishing the waist of a garment that is a separate sewn on facing that hangs below lower seam of waist

30、band made of fabric other than shell that is interfaced/interlined or turned. Cut and Sew (Sweater): Sweater panels are knit to the body length of the largest size, the shape of the neckline, shoulders and armholes are cut out, smaller sizes are cut down. Cut On Placket: See definition for Pla

31、cket. Cutting: Formation of garment pieces from layers (plies) of fabric by means of a die, laser or knife. Typically done on a long table. D Dart: A sewn wedge or diamond shaped tuck/seam used to make a garment conform to the curves of the body. Delamination: A separation in the bond betw

32、een the fusible interlining and the piece goods. This can be total separation (total delamination) or partial separation (localized delaminiation). Denier: Weight measurement of yarns. Low numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers represent the coarser/heavier sizes. Also see defi

33、nition for Elastic Denier Die Cutting: Sharp metal outlines in the shape of pattern pieces used to cut plies of fabric in conjunction with either a click press or die cutting press. Typically used for smaller pattern pieces. Differential Shrinkage: Occurs when the piece goods and the interlinin

34、g are not moving in sync and will cause distortion in the surface appearance of the garment part. Doghouse Stitch: See definition for Triangle Reinforce Stitch. Double Needle Centered Over Seam: See definition for Centered Over Seam Stitch. Double Turn Hem: See definition for Hem. Double Y

35、oke/ Stylized Yoke: See definition for Yoke. Drape: See definition for Hang. Drawcord: See definition for Drawstring. Drawstring: A narrow string, ribbon, cord, or tube of fabric inserted into a casing and pulled up or tied to create shape and/or hold the garment to the body. Dress For

36、m: See definition for Mannequin. D-Ring: “D” shaped piece of hardware often used to create an adjustable closure held together by a looped and stitched end of a belt. E Ease: The method of sewing together 2 components of varying seam lengths evenly distributing fullness so as not to cause g

37、athers or puckers. See definitions for Tight, Moderate and Generous. Ease Over Body: The amount of room above body measurements needed in a garment to allow adequate movement when worn. Eighth Top Pocket: See definition for Slant Pocket. Elastic Braided: A narrow elastic band, often used as

38、 trimmings and bindings. Formed by plating several strands of yards and bare elastomers. Braided elastic usually becomes narrowed when elongated. Made on a circular braiding machine. Elastic Denier: The size or thickness of the yarn. Also thickness of spandex (The lower the number the weaker the

39、spandex) Elastic Elastomers: Natural Rubber Thread Elastic Elongation: Stretch – measure 5” relaxed and pull to maximum; measurement result given in a %. Elastic Ends of Rubber: The number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular size or quality of elastic. Elastic Gauge: Thick

40、ness of rubber (The lower the number the stronger the rubber) Elastic Knitted: Fabric construction for interlocking series of looper of one or more yarns. Materials normally used are textured polyester yarns or textured nylon and bare spandex or extruded rubber. Made on a flat bed crochet machine.

41、 Elastic Modulus: Power (resistance to stretch), strength or tension of the elastic. The force required to pull the elastic to a specific stretch/length, determines the amount of pressure the elastic is putting on the wearer’s body. Elastic Non Roll: Elastic that has enough width wise stabilit

42、y so it does not bend, roll or crush across its width when worn. Made with monofilament thread. Elastic Recovery: Ability of elastic to retain its original length immediately after stretching and releasing. After stretching the elastic to its maximum capability. The elastic must return to 90% to

43、92% of its original length. Elastic Waistband: See definition for Waistband Elastic Woven: Primarily made up of warp yarns, fill yarns and covered spandex or covered extruded rubber. Generally thicker and denser due to the bulkiness of the covered elastomers and stitch formations. Ma

44、de on a shuttle loom. Elastomeric: An end of spandex which has been covered or twisted with yarn. Embroidery: Fancy needlework or trimming using colored yarn, floss, cotton, silk or metallic threads. Enclosed Seam: See definition for French Seams. Ends of Rubber: The number of strands of r

45、ubber used to manufacture a particular size or quality of elastic. Execution: See definition for Construction. Exposed Seam: Seams in which the seam allowances are visible on the outside of the garment. Exposed Zipper: Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth visible.

46、 Expression of Fit: Designer’s vision of how the garment should fit on the human form.The key elements of fit that are related to the styling of the garment include, but are not limited to, where the garment sits on the waist of the body and how tight fitting a garment is. It is possible for a ga

47、rment to achieve an excellent fit, but still not have achieved the designer’s vision for fit. Extended Tab Waistband: See definition for Waistband. Eyelet: Small circular plastic or metal tube secured to fabric to form an opening. Can also be formed by a round embroidered opening. Can be de

48、corative or used with cord. F Fabric: Cloth made of textile yarns or fibers by weaving, knitting, lace making, braiding, netting, or felting. Can also be made by bonding or non-woven methods. Fabric Hand Feel: See definition for Hand. Face: Surface of f

49、abric designated in the weaving/knitting process to be used as the outside of a finished garment. Facing: Piece of fabric used to finish a raw edge. Facings are turned to the inside of a garment enclosing seams. Faggoting: Open-work embroidery done by drawing out horizontal threads of fabric

50、, then tying the vertical threads in groups to produce open spaces, OR, decorative stitching that holds together two closely spaced folded edges of fabric with ornamental stitches. Fashioning Marks (Sweater): Raised “twists” that results from transferring loops to adjacent needles to decrease t

51、he width of the knitted panel, usually occurs in a series at neckline and armhole. Felled Seam: Process that conceals seam allowance between plies as they are folded together and topstitched through all layers. Female Closure: Fiber: Basic filament or strand from which yarns are made. Fi

52、bers are either short with natural materials or man-made materials which are made in long continuous filaments. Filament: A fiber of indefinite or extreme length as found in silk or synthetic fibers. Fill: Crosswise or horizontal yarn of a woven fabric that runs at right angles to the warp yarns

53、 or selvage. Findings: All the smaller items and trimmings that complete a garment. Maybe decorative material that adorns the garment. Fine Gauge (Sweater): A small knitted stitch usually 12 to 24 gauge. Finishing: All the final stages of preparing a garment for point of sale. Includes, but

54、not limited to, washing, pressing, thread clipping, inspection, ticketing, etc. Fishtail Buttonhole: For Definition see buttonhole. Fit: How well a garment conforms to the 3-dimensional human body. Fit Model: Individual who represents the figure type of the intended guest used to evaluate

55、the fit of garments. Fitting Ease: See definition for Ease Over Body. Flap Pocket: Flare Leg Silhouette: Flat Felled Seam: See definition for Felled Seam. Flat Finish: See definition for Set Flat. Flat Knit: Fabric knitted flat and has selvages. Flat Knit Collar: Floating Tack:

56、See definition for Swing Tack. Fraying: Fraying is the unraveling of yarn in either the fill or warp direction. Free Hanging Lining: Lining not attached at garment hem. French Dart: See definition for Dart. French Fly Facing: A separate sewn on fabric tab or extension used to cover zipp

57、er teeth. It extends from bottom of zipper to waistband and buttons to inside of pants near waist. French Seams: Process where raw edges of a seam are enclosed between garment plies as they are turned over and stitched, forming a clean finish. French Tack: See definition for Swing Tack. Fr

58、og: Ornamental braided two piece garment closure forming button and loop Full Fashioned / Knit to Shape (Sweater): Sweater panel is knit to shape by increasing and decreasing the number of needles used during the knitting action. No cutting is required to obtain the desired panel shape. Ful

59、l Needle Rib (Sweater): Double bed construct commonly used at start or placket; looks like 1X1 rib, but is more compact. Can be either link/loop attached (see linking/Looping Definition) or continuous knit attach. Full Placket: See definition for Placket. Fusible: Fabric containing heat se

60、nsitive adhesive for application using heat and pressure. Commonly seen on interfacing or decorative trims. G Gathering: See definition for Shirring. Gauge Elastic: See definition for Elastic Gauge Gauge (Sewing) The distance between needles on a sewing machine. Gauge(Knits/Sweaters): De

61、notes the number of needles per inch on a knitting machine. The larger the number (gauge) the finer the knit. Example 12 gg has 12 needles per inch vs 3 gg with 3 needles per inch. Gauntlet: A type of sleeve placket. Generous Ease: Loosely fits to body with a large amount of ease. Godet:

62、Triangle shaped inset of fabric that creates fullness, or greater width. Typically used in skirts and bell-bottom pants. Gore: Skirt section that is wider at the hem than the waist, providing fullness and shaping to waist without using darts. Graded Pattern: Individual patterns for each size wi

63、thin a size range. Grading: The process of proportionately increasing or decreasing a core size pattern to create patterns accordingly in relationship to body growth. Grain: Warp or lengthwise direction of the fabric, running parallel to the selvage. Greige Fabric: See definition for Greige

64、 Goods. Greige Goods: Pronounced (gr or grzh). An unfinished fabric just off the loom or knitting machine. Grin Through: 1) The ability to see under layer of fabric or lining through the garment shell fabric due to color or fabric weight. 2) A printing term referring to either poor cover where t

65、he background shade shows through the print. Grommet: See definition for Eyelet. Gusset: Shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment seam or slash opening to permit greater movement. Commonly found on underarms, crotch of pants, thermal underwear, and active wear. H Half Moon Patch:

66、See definition for Sweat Patch. Half Moon Stand: Separate shaped piece of fabric that is not the full length of garment neckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. Used to help shape and fit collar to body. Half Placket: See definition for Placket. Hand: The tactile characteristics that make up a fabric. Handle: Refers to the texture/softness/feel of the elastic when being handled. Hand Stretch: A rough estimation for the elongation of a product. This s